If Your Checking Ground and Get a Voltage Reading Is This a Short

Dan Ferrell writes about do-it-yourself auto maintenance and repair. He has certifications in automation and command technology.

The alternator is at the heart of the charging system of your vehicle. — The alternator is at the middle of the charging system of your vehicle.

Photo courtesy of Pentti Immonen on Wikimedia

Alternator problems and charging system problems can bear upon your vehicle in different ways. You may notice:

your ALT or CHARGE indicator lite comes on,
your engine is hard to outset and cranks slowly, or doesn't crank,
your bombardment demands lots of water,
your alternator makes noises,
or your headlights all of a sudden go dim.

These and other problems may exist acquired past a fault in the charging system.

Before yous start replacing components with the hope of fixing the trouble, you demand to determine which component or components are causing you trouble. Oftentimes, it is possible to diagnose and solve the problem on your own using a few simple tests and tools.

The sooner you find out what is causing trouble, the amend. You lot'll prevent a faulty component from ruining other parts in the system, which would make your repair more expensive.

This convenient troubleshooting guide volition help you find out what you need to know, using a few elementary checks you can do at home using a test light or digital multimeter (DMM) and peradventure a few other common tools.

It is a proficient thought to have on hand the vehicle repair manual (or a skilful aftermarket transmission) for your item car make and model. It will assistance you lot identify wires, specific components, and perhaps suggest some specific tests recommended by your manufacturer.

If you want to exam the condition of the system as a diagnostic starting point, do the tests described in the post-obit section, "General Charging System Cheque."

However, if you lot need help for a specific problem with your charging system—for example, an over-charge or under-charge condition, discharging bombardment, or noisy system—then skip over to the "Charging System Issues and Potential Causes" section.


Index
I. Common Symptoms of a Bad Alternator or Charging System
II. General Charging System Checks
3. Charging System Problems and Potential Causes
Four. Troubleshooting for Unusual Voltage Organisation Drops

The battery indicator should turn off when your engine is running.

Photograph courtesy of Kskhh on Wikipedia

I. Common Symptoms of a Bad Alternator or Charging System

Indicator Lite On

Ordinarily, the first sign that your charging system is in trouble is a "battery," "ALT," or "Charge" alert low-cal illuminating on your instrument panel while driving. Information technology ways that the alternator voltage output is below 12 volts, or over its limit or has stopped charging the battery and your car is running on battery power.

If the light illuminates only intermittently, information technology unremarkably indicates a loose or worn bulldoze belt or serpentine belt, worn-out or bad carbon brushes in the alternator. Merely remember that the low-cal doesn't always hateful there is a bad office; the calorie-free may be triggered by a sensor giving a wrong bulletin or there's something wrong with the circuit itself.

Two. Six Tests for the Charging System in Full general

These serial of charging system checks help diagnose the general condition of your charging organisation. They can assistance you lot ostend that you really have a trouble in your charging system and locate the source of the problem.

1. Brand a Visual Inspection of the System

With the engine off, popular the hood open and visually inspect the different components of the charging system. Look for a worn out or loose bulldoze chugalug, alternator connection issues, loose alternator mounting bolts, and corrosion and dirt around the battery case and cables.

When inspecting the bulldoze belt, check for aligning. If necessary, suit the belt with the help of your car owner's transmission or repair manual. Inspect the chugalug for signs of cracks, cuts, shiny spots, deterioration or other signs of wear or damage. Alter the chugalug and belt tensioner at the manufacturer's recommended interval.

ii. Cheque for Wiring Problems

Audit the wires and connections at the back of the alternator, at the remote voltage regulator (if applicable), and at the battery. Look for corrosion at the connectors, damaged wires, and burned and missing insulation that might suggest an electric short.

three. Do This If the Indicator Low-cal Stays On, or Goes On and Off

Follow the side by side steps:

Start the engine and utilise the emergency brakes. Set the transmission to Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic).
Connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals.
While watching the voltmeter brandish, start wiggling wires at the dorsum of the alternator, the battery, and the remote voltage regulator (if there is one).
If the voltage reading on the meter display goes up while wiggling one of the wires, you lot've found a bad electric wire or connection.

Instead of using a voltmeter, you can take an assistant sentinel the indicator light on the instrument panel to run into if information technology turns off as yous wiggle various wires and connectors. Once the lite turns off, yous've found the problem connector or wire.

4. Check for Alternator Noises

Bad alternator bearings, rectifiers, rotor shaft, stator winding, sideslip rings, brushes and other parts inside the alternator with mechanical or electric problems can go noisy.

Here'south a test you can do: Utilize a length of vacuum hose to listen for alternator noises. The hose volition amplify the noise if it'due south coming from the alternator. Merely be very conscientious around moving parts while you practise this test.

Kickoff the engine.
Place one end of the hose confronting your ear and movement the other end around different points of the alternator body.
Listen for whining noises (this tin can betoken a bad diode or an over-charging condition), grinding (bad bearing), squealing, or other abnormal racket. If necessary, have your alternator checked.

5. Check for Under-Charging and Over-Charging

The next three tests are best done using a load tester, but you still can employ your digital voltmeter. Yous do this by measuring system voltage while loading the system.

5a. First, measure out battery base voltage to make sure you have a fully charged battery.

Turn on the high beams for ten seconds and so turn them off.

Await for ii minutes

Measure bombardment voltage across the battery posts with your DMM. You should become betwixt 12.4 and 12.6V. This means your battery is fully charged. If yous get a reading beneath 12.4V, charge the battery earlier continuing.

5b. Measure out the Charging Organisation's No-Load Voltage

Inquire an banana to commencement the engine and hold engine speed at about 1500 RPM.

Measure voltage across the battery with your DMM. You should get 0.5 to 2 volts higher than base voltage. If you are getting more 2 volts above base voltage, nearly probable your alternator is over-charging the battery or the battery is faulty. Other potential problems are a faulty voltage regulator or a trouble in the charging organization wiring. Equally function of your wiring checks, see the section "Troubleshooting for Unusual Charging System Voltage Drops" below.

5c. Measure charging system load voltage with a high-electric current-condition arrangement measurement.

Inquire an banana to start the engine and hold engine speed at about 2000 RPM. Turn on all electric accessories like A/C, blower motor, headlights, defroster, wipers. Just don't turn on the heated windshield if your vehicle has ane; alternator voltage may increase to over 100V and this tin can be unsafe.

Take a voltage reading across the battery posts. Your reading should be at least 0.5 volts above base voltage for your system to go along up with electric system demands. Otherwise, the charging system can't meet the demand and accuse your battery. This fault could bespeak to a faulty alternator or voltage regulator. Check the section "Troubleshooting for Unusual Charging Organisation Voltage Drops" below to check for wiring problems that tin can pb to this status.

NOTE: These measurements stand for to an ambient temperature of nigh 70º F. The charging voltage volition increment as temperature drops, and charging voltage volition subtract equally temperature goes upward. Then proceed this in mind when making your measurements.

6. Bank check for Alternator AC Voltage Leak

Alternators use diodes to rectify alternating current produced by the alternator into direct current. When i or more diodes go bad or a stator winding fails, the alternator tin can cause all kinds of problems. Ac voltage leak tin can cause your lights to dim and drain ability from your bombardment, for example. Unremarkably, you can discover this leak by measuring AC voltage at the alternator.

Start and permit the engine idle.
Set the parking brake and your transmission to Park (automatic) or Neutral (transmission).
Set your meter to a low Ac voltage range.
Ask an assistant to increment engine RPM to 2000 rpm.
Affect the red meter atomic number 82 to the alternator battery terminal B+.
Touch the black meter atomic number 82 to the alternator case (footing).
If your DMM reads 0.4 Air conditioning volts or less, the diodes are good.
If your DMM reads 0.five Air-conditioning volts or more than, the diodes or stator is faulty.

In one case you've determined the status of the system, you tin go over the side by side section to zero in on the potential problem(s) that may be causing the condition of the charging system.

A single bad battery cell can prevent your charging system from working properly. — A unmarried bad bombardment cell can prevent your charging system from working properly.

Photograph in the public domain.

Three. Charging System Bug and Potential Causes

To speed up your diagnosis and repair, look upwards the system condition that about resembles your problem and go over the potential causes described under that condition. Some checks or tests may be suggested as appropriate.

1. If the Battery Seems to Stay Undercharged

Y'all have already charged your battery a couple of times and you merely found out the battery is undercharged once again. Before y'all arraign your bombardment, or the alternator, here are some preliminary checks you may want to do.

a) Check the drive chugalug or serpentine belt, especially if you haven't replaced information technology in the last 5 years. Make sure the belt has the proper tension. Look for signs of wear or damage like cuts, shiny spots, missing chunks. Today serpentine belts don't show signs of wear, even if they need to be replaced. Use a belt wear indicator or check your maintenance schedule for the replacement interval suggested by your car manufacturer. You lot may find the schedule in your machine owner's transmission or your repair manual.

b) Forth with the drive belt, cheque the belt tensioner equally well. Make sure it turns freely and is noise-free. Car manufacturers recommend replacing the tensioner at the aforementioned time you replace the drive belt.

c) Make sure your bombardment connections are tight and clean. However, simply because the terminals look clean, it doesn't mean they are tight and in expert status. Look for damage to the cable and the last itself that may prevent proper electrical current menstruation.

d) Bank check your bombardment yourself, or take information technology to your local auto parts store. Many of these stores volition test your battery for complimentary.

east) There's a parasitic battery bleed stealing ability from your battery.

A quick test is to connect a exam light in series betwixt the positive battery cable and the positive battery post. If the examination light comes on, at that place is an electric drain in ane of the systems.
First, unplug the alternator electrical connector. If the exam light goes out, the alternator is causing the drain. If not, locate the parasitic drain.

f) Don't overlook the starter motor: a declining starter motor may draw excessive electric current during operation, draining battery power. If necessary, have your starter motor or starting system tested.

g) If you recently added an electrical accompaniment to the vehicle, you may have over passed your alternator's chapters.

h) In that location could be an alternator wiring problem.

i) Have the alternator and battery checked.

ii. If the System Seems to Exist Over-Charging

Likewise test results, another potential sign that your battery is being overcharged is that your battery terminals keep accumulating corrosion.

Here are some checks you want to do:

Make sure that all the connections to the alternator, remote voltage regulator (if applicable) and battery are clean, tight and in practiced condition.
Check your battery or take it tested at your local car parts store. A bad battery cell tin can cause the alternator to over-charge the good battery cells.
Check for a bad alternator voltage regulator and circuit. Consult your vehicle repair manual, if necessary.
Make sure you have good ground connections at the alternator (alternator example) and voltage regulator, peculiarly if your vehicle uses a remote voltage regulator. Grounds should be free of rust, and the alternator and remote voltage regulator mounting bolts should be clean and tight.
Bank check the alternator rectifier or take your alternator checked at the machine parts shop.
Also, acquit the tests described in the Troubleshooting for Unusual Charging System Voltage Drops below.

3. If the Alternator Is Non Charging the Bombardment

When your tests point to an under-charge or no-charging condition:

Make sure the drive chugalug is non loose or worn out.
If necessary, borrow a good battery just to operate the engine and confirm that your drive belt and belt tensioner are operating properly.
Manually bank check the belt tensioner for proper operation. Make sure the tensioner pulley turns freely and without dissonance. Check it for harm.
Manually turn the alternator caster and make sure it turns without a problem. If one of the bearings has seized, it won't permit the alternator to turn freely.
Check that the connections at the battery, alternator, and remote voltage regulator are clean and tight.
Check for a blown fuse or fusible link. Consult your vehicle repair transmission, if necessary, to locate the alternator fuse or fusible link.
Practise the tests described in the department "Troubleshooting for Unusual Charging System Voltage Drops" below.

4. If the Engine Makes Noises

Dissonance can be a sign of alternator issues when it comes from the charging system. The next checkpoints volition help you isolate the source of the racket.

Check the drive belt or serpentine belt. Await for signs of wear or damage like cuts, shiny spots or missing chunks under the belt. A worn out belt tin squeal during operation.
Also, bank check the belt tensioner for proper performance and impairment. It should rotate freely.
Make sure the alternator is properly mounted. Loose mounting bolts can crusade the alternator drive belt and drive pulley to become misaligned and noisy.
Check the alternator for noises. See the Full general Charging System Checks department for a unproblematic process for this.

5. If Lights Dim During Engine Operation

Most alternators apply diodes inside a rectifier to turn Alternating Electric current (Ac) into Straight Current (DC) for use by the system. When i or more than diodes become bad, Air-conditioning can leak into the electrical system. Sometimes y'all tin can notice this when the headlights, musical instrument console lights, and other interior lights dim during engine performance. To test your alternator for Ac current leaks, see the Alternator Air-conditioning Voltage Leak Check subsection in the previous department.

Measure system voltage and drop voltages using a digital multimeter.

Photo courtesy of Steve C on Wikimedia

Iv. Troubleshooting for Unusual Charging System Voltage Drops

A charging organisation voltage driblet check can help you locate the source of an under-accuse or over-charge condition due to problems in the wiring or connections between the battery and alternator.

1. Start the engine and permit information technology idle. Utilise the parking restriction and ready the transmission to Neutral (manual transmission) or Park (automatic transmission).

2. Turn on the high beams to provide a system load. And have an assistant raise engine speed to virtually 1500 RPM. If your vehicle is equipped with a heated windshield, don't turn it on; this tin can brand alternator voltage go over 100 Five. Since yous'll be working around alternator connections, this could be dangerous.

3. With your voltmeter test leads, bear upon the positive bombardment post and the B+ terminal connector at the dorsum of the alternator.

iv. Bank check your meter brandish. You should get effectually 0.4V or less of voltage driblet. If your voltage driblet is higher, information technology can lead to an nether-charge condition. Check the connections in that function of the excursion for a loose wire, corrosion at the connectors or wiring damage that may prevent proper electric current flow betwixt the battery and alternator. Likewise, cheque the electrical connections at the back of the alternator and at the voltage regulator.

five. Now repeat the test, but this time, connect your meter leads betwixt the battery negative post and the alternator case.

6. Check your meter display. Once again, you should get a voltage reading effectually 0.2V or less. If your voltage driblet is higher, at that place'south something wrong. This can lead to an over-charging condition. Checking that part of the circuit, make sure the battery basis connection is skillful, clean and tight. Add a temporary ground connection from the bombardment to the chassis. If this removes the high voltage driblet, cheque the engine to body grounds connections. They should be make clean, tight and in good condition.

Sentry the next video for a visual reference on voltage drib checks.

Alternator problems are non uncommon after a few years of operation. A typical alternator may last anywhere from eight to 12 years. Then don't be surprised to find your alternator going bad or the system developing issues after a few years of trouble-free performance, even if you take maintained your car well.

The key point here is to exercise the proper diagnostic every bit soon as possible because a bad alternator can ruin an otherwise skillful bombardment, and other components equally well, depending on the fault.

Once you determine that your alternator is bad, y'all accept several options. You tin can replace it with an original one from your dealer, an aftermarket replacement, or a rebuilt unit. Aftermarket alternators are a good option and less expensive, and many of them are simply every bit proficient as their OEM counterparts. And rebuilt alternators are not as bad either. And then consider your options.

This content is accurate and true to the best of the writer's knowledge and is not meant to substitute for formal and individualized advice from a qualified professional.

Questions & Answers

Question: I have a 2000 Monte Carlo and my battery low-cal is still coming on after changing my starter and battery and alternator. Mmy auto will shut off after 2 to iii minutes. What could be the problem?

Reply: The problem could be in the charging excursion. This other post may assist:

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Charging-Arrangement...

Question: I got a 2012 Nissan Xterra. I just installed a new alternator and new bombardment. Information technology starts up skillful and idles proficient now as well, but when I give it full throttle and go close to 3,000 RPMs, my battery light and park brake lights comes on and flashes at me. And the bombardment volt gauge goes down a whole lot. What could exist the problem?

Respond: Check the alternator belt and tensioner. Belt should have the proper force per unit area. If it's loose, it won't accuse properly during difficult accelerations. Bank check voltage at the battery when accelerating (at idle and emergency brakes applied). Y'all should get around thirteen.v or so. Otherwise, there could be a trouble with the voltage regulator. Yous may demand to supersede the alternator. If not, cheque the wires and connections between the battery and alternator.

Question: I've got a 1982 Chevy K10 half dozen.2L and I swapped the alternator. Information technology's charging but it's charging slowly. Information technology'south running at 12.80 volts constantly. I'm out of ideas?

Answer: Check the connections. A loose, corroded or damaged wire or connection tin cause this blazon of problems:

https://axleaddict.com/motorcar-repair/Charging-System...

If the alternator was working fine in the other vehicle, have the battery tested if necessary.

Question: I utilise a Golf 4 alternator on a Golf 4 every bit I saw fit. Information technology runs fine, and there aren't whatever alarming sound. The trouble is that it doesn't accuse when I start the car. I take to rev the engine hard, then it starts to charge commonly. What the problem?

Answer: If the warning calorie-free is coming on when you lot rev the engine, check the calorie-free circuit. specifically, you should check the resistors in the approximate cluster.

Bank check the drive belt first for tension and wear. Also, make certain that the dorsum wires are properly connected and clean. Then, check the voltage regulator.

Question: Why is the alternator overheating even though the engine is off?

Answer: Cheque your battery and excursion between the battery and alternator. Also, check if there are whatever modifications to the organization?

Question: Battery tested fine, but alternator voltage would go up and downwardly. Occasionally, a BATTERY SYSTEM FAILURE lite will come on. Could information technology be a sensor/fuse problem since it doesn't stay on all the fourth dimension?

Answer: The alternator could be faulty. Just you may desire to run a voltage drib examination on the circuit beginning. Some models, like GM, accept a fusible link in the circuit. Make sure that it's good. This other post has a voltage drop section that may help:

https://hubpages.com/auto-repair/Charging-Organisation-C...

Question: When my engine is at idle the voltage is effectually 13V, only when I turn on the headlights and Ac, information technology drops to 11V to 11.8V. What seems to be the problem?

Answer: My guess is the Air-conditioning pulley may be putting a strain on the crankshaft pulley, affecting alternator output. Or the AC caster is affecting the belt. Check how the three operate when the AC is on.

Question: I accept an 04 Lincoln aviator. I changed the battery, alternator and I am still getting a check charging system message. What do I practice next?

Answer: Make certain you really have a charging problem. Your local auto parts store tin check the alternator and battery for you lot. If there's a problem, it could be in the circuit. If not, the excursion for the alarm light might be the consequence.

Question: I take a 2006 Toyota Yaris T3 998cc plate. My married woman went to start information technology. It wouldn't showtime. It tried but was like the battery was flat. I wiggled the wires going to the alternator and it struck up hands. Do these symptoms mean the alternator is no practiced?

Answer: Check offset the wires for a loose or dirty connection; frayed wires, etc.. Checking voltage drop on the connections and wires can help a lot to locate faulty connectors and wires. This other post may assistance.

https://axleaddict.com/motorcar-repair/Automotive-Volt...

Question: I take a 06 Mustang GT. I replaced the alternator considering it was causing a camshaft position sensor code. After replacing it and checking my work, the battery light with a warning "check charging system" comes on. It comes on for a minute or so and so goes out for a few minutes. The battery seems to stay around 13.vii volts what could be causing the light to come on randomly? I take not driven information technology yet.

Respond: Cheque the circuit connections. This could be a loose or bad wire/connector. You lot may desire to attempt a voltage drop exam. This post gives yous an idea of the exam:

https://hubpages.com/auto-repair/Automotive-Voltag...

Question: I have a 2001 Toyota Solara with 158,000 miles. I've gone through 5 alternators in about 6 yrs. Even the Toyota oem. 2 reliable mechanics can't effigy information technology out. I'm taking it to a shop that specializes in electrical bug. Do you have any ideas?

Answer: Knowing how the previous alternators failed can give a inkling about the type of event you are dealing with (electrical, mechanical). Unremarkably when alternators failed prematurely is because of a bad battery (electrical), voltage regulator issues, loftier electric loads (east.yard. running Air conditioning fan at high) or a bulldoze chugalug that is putting unusual stress on the alternator pulley (mechanical)(brand certain the belt is not too tight). Alternator quality can be another gene of course.

Check for signs of fluid leakage effectually the alternator that might bear on the stator or rotor or both.

Question: I have a good alternator, but my battery runs downwardly. It passed tests performed at two auto parts stores. When this trouble occurred, I was able to get dwelling by starting the vehicle (2000 GMC Yukon, 5.3L) by disconnecting the battery. Voltage when up close to 14 according to the judge. When I reconnected the concoction at dwelling house, it was nonetheless dead. Got a new bombardment and have the aforementioned trouble with bombardment bleed. Exercise you have any ideas?

Answer: If you accept some power amplifier, or some other power accessories, this could be running downward the battery if the alternator tin't keep upward with the demand. Other than that, you may want to take the alternator checked in a shop, and come across where the charge is going while the engine is running.

Y'all tin bank check for a parasitic drain that yous may non be enlightened of. This post tin can help yous:

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/car-batterydrai...

Question: I installed a new 105-amp alternator in my 1982 Chevrolet C10. When I start the engine, it indicates xiv.6 volts on the voltmeter connected to the bombardment. When I beginning the Ac fan and the Air-conditioning compressor, the voltage increases to 15.eight volts. Afterwards a while, the alternator stops charging; I think information technology might exist defective. I changed two alternators, but I still accept the same trouble. What practice you recall?

Answer: Check the voltage regulator and the battery. An auto parts shop may check the battery for you. Likewise, may certain the circuit connections for the charging organization are make clean and tight and bank check the engine trunk grounds.

Question: I have a 2004 Taurus, and I've changed the battery and alternator merely the charging organization light is even so on. Any ideas why?

Answer: Check the fusible link, you tin can exam it with your multimeter.

Question: I accept a 2005 Ford Taurus ane day it wouldn't start. Information technology finally started and flashing lights to check the restriction arrangement in the charging arrangement, merely and so it wouldn't kickoff once it was jumped. Information technology kept stalling, so we had it checked at an auto parts store. They agreed alternator replaced the alternator and information technology is still doing the same thing do you lot have any idea what else could exist wrong?

Answer: Check all the grounds -- battery to torso and torso to engine. They should exist clean and tight. Bad grounds can eventually, damage the alternator. Test for voltage drop on the grounds, battery and charging organisation.

Question: I had my alternator rebuilt. Now I am having a problem getting it to charge at idle, I become 14.5 volts at 1500 rpm, but as soon as I release the throttle it drops downwardly to battery voltage, I've returned the alternator one time already. He checked it again, replaced the regulator and said it'southward putting out full voltage, but on the car, it's doing exactly equally I mentioned before, no voltage at idle, full voltage when revving the engine. Could this be a PCM issue?

Answer: Check the chugalug and belt tensioner for the correct tension. Take a look at the connections at the back of the alternator, especially the B+ connector. On early models the indicator light on the dashboard should come on when the ignition cardinal is in the On position, otherwise, you lot'll have bug at idle. There could also exist a problem in the charging circuit, a loose, corroded or damaged wire can besides preclude total voltage at depression rpm. Take a expect at the grounds and the output wiring to the battery. Y'all may demand the diagram for this. These other posts may help:

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Automotive-Volt...

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Charging-System...

Question: Our engine volition take too much time to start. How can I check the alternator?

Reply: The problem might exist with the bombardment, starting organisation, ignition or fuel organization. Bank check the batter condition, cheque for spark and fuel pressure level.

Question: I have a Toyota Corolla VVTI model 2004, I take changed the alternator but the battery indicator is still present. I have checked the fuses and connections, simply the problem continues. What could be the issue?

Respond: Have the battery tested, and bank check the connections in the charging organisation. Make sure they're make clean and tight. Besides, the cheque the engine grounds.

Question: My voltage is fine when I beginning the vehicle, just after driving around for about ten-fifteen minutes, my voltage goes from 14v to 15.5-16v. I accept an aftermarket voltage regulator, and a high output 320 amp alternator and my battery dies if I don't unhook the wire from my bombardment to the cars fuse box. Do y'all have any ideas?

Answer: You demand to make sure the alternator is suited for your application. These alternators need the right caster ratio and pulley diameter to work correctly. Besides cheque that it has the right size bombardment cables claw to the battery.

Question: I put my OBDll reader on my automobile and it says my charging organisation output is high. What does that mean exactly?

Answer: This basically means the alternator is overcharging the battery. Normally the trouble here is the voltage regulator. Earlier replacing the alternator, you lot can accept the alternator to a local automobile parts store and have them check it for you. Make certain the alternator is the problem.

Question: What are the nearly common faults likely to occur in a charging organisation? More 6 points at to the lowest degree.

Respond: There tin can be a trouble with the circuit, voltage regulator, ignition switch, corroded battery cables, faulty battery, worn or loose bulldoze belt, bad car estimator.

Question: I accept a 2022 Nissan Pathfinder. I changed my alternator in July 2018. Alternator stopped working once more on two/6/2019 and replaced it on 2/seven/2019. Back in the shop on 2/11/2019 with bad alternator again. This time the alternator is overcharging. The alternators were bought from O'Reilly's motorcar parts. Just found out they are rebuilt alternators, and not new. Still, the price was $400 for the part. Could there exist something causing the part to get bad and so quick or could it just happen to exist bad parts?

Answer: Make sure you are using the correct battery for your application. On some newer models using the incorrect battery can affect the alternator, specially those that interact with the ECU. Besides, bank check the chugalug and pulleys. Make sure the pulleys are correctly aligned, and the alternator is properly mounted without rust accumulation, especially the basis connections, including engine and battery grounds. Also, check the wiring for signs of electrical faults. And yes, some models are very sensitive to using parts other than OEM, but kickoff, brand the previous checks.

Question: I accept a 1998 Ford Mustang. I've changed the battery and the alternator. I'm notwithstanding losing voltage from the alternator to the battery. It is just running on the battery. What tin cause this trouble?

Answer: You might want to make a voltage drop exam on the charging circuit. There could be a bad connection or wire that is non also evident. This other post will give you lot an thought on how to become about the test:

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Automotive-Volt...

Question: I replaced the original alternator on my 2022 Kia Forte. The replacement alternator shows that it went bad and that I replaced it with the second ane, now it went down. What is the trouble? I have also noticed the positive bombardment mail service on my battery gets hot. Do you have any thought what information technology could be?

Answer: There could exist too much resistance on that side of the circuit. Bank check the cable for harm, or a problem at the connectors. If everything seems okay, have your battery tested.

Question: I have a 2003 VW Eurovan. Recently, the ABS light went on, then, after a few minutes the regular red restriction low-cal lit and the car stopped. What is going on?

Answer: You need to download the trouble codes. At that place could be a number of things that triggered the ABS lite - problems with the tone band, wheel bearing, speed sensor (and wiring).

Question: I have a GM 3500 6.0 with an overcharging problem. I ran new wires to the PCM and fuse box for the connector. I accept a brand new alternator, PCM, and ACDelco battery. The power wire for the alternator to the battery reads correctly as well. But it is still charging to xv.6-xvi.0. What could possibly be going wrong with my car's alternator?

Answer: The problem could exist on the ground side of the circuit. Increased resistance (loose, corroded grounds) tin cause this type of problem. Of form, you want to make certain you got the right alternator for your application. This other post may help:

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Charging-Arrangement...

Also, make certain to scout this other video:

https://world wide web.youtube.com/watch?v=OqylgRKiC-A

Question: I have a 2012 Town and Country with 110k miles. Last yr at around a 100k miles I replaced the alternator due to regulator failure. This year I installed a new battery. The problem is the charging light comes on randomly. I drive effectually with a voltmeter to run these tests the moment it happens, only everything checks out. Why does the light come on and not go out?

Respond: Cheque the belt. A worn chugalug may sideslip intermittently, affecting the charging system. The problem with newer belts is they look expert even if they are worn. Bank check the belt for tension and clothing (use a belt wear gauge), tensioner, pulleys, and grounds, and peculiarly engine grounds.

Question: I take an 03 Dakota. It needed a new battery, however, the battery gauge goes to 0, and the idiot lite comes on after I drive information technology for a minute. It starts fine and the lights are fine; merely that approximate quits working. What causes that?

Answer: Check the alternator, peradventure a bad voltage regulator.

Make certain the drive belt is not loose or the idler bad, causing the belt to skid. If the bombardment charge is not affected and everything else seems to work just fine, there could exist a loose wire or connector in the circuit to the gauge.

Question: I accept a 2007 Cadillac CTS. I replaced the battery, cranked up and the negative connectedness got hot. What would cause my Cadillac's battery to rut up?

Answer: If the negative cablevision gets also hot just cranking the engine, at that place's too much resistance in that office of the excursion. If this happened right subsequently installing the new bombardment, probably the negative cablevision is not well connected or is damaged or there'southward some corrosion. You tin besides practice a voltage drop test on that part of the circuit. These posts may aid:

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/How-to-Use-Volt...

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Automotive-Volt...

Question: What causes voltage to fluctuate?

Answer: There could be several causes backside the consequence:

bad alternator, bad voltage regulator, bad connections between the bombardment and alternator.

Commencement, make certain the connections are clean and tight, and the cables are adept. Especially, bank check the grounds between the engine and body. Then, accept the alternator tested in your local auto parts store.

Question: I take a 1966 Ford Mustang and take swapped out the alternator 3 times. It will work fine at times, then at other times the voltage steadily drops, especially if I turn the lights on. The chugalug is proficient, connections are adept. The battery is good. Any ideas equally to what the problem could exist?

Answer: Brand sure you lot have clean and tight connections to the voltage regulator. If necessary, take the regulator checked. it might not be sensing the voltage drop at the alternator when load increases. And the battery doesn't get the required charge. Hope this helps.

Question: On my manner home, the alternator light came on simply made it abode fine. The side by side mean solar day, the truck was hard to crank and would only stay running if my foot remained on the gas. The side by side 24-hour interval, I charged the bombardment and put it dorsum in. Thought information technology was fixed but now the battery is dead and won't recharge. What's the problem now?

Respond: Have the battery and alternator checked. If the alternator or charging organisation was faulty, it could've damaged the battery. Likewise checking the charging system voltage drop may help in the diagnosis.

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Charging-Arrangement...

Question: What would crusade my alternator to be charging where it supposed to be, then cause it to drib all of the sudden? Yous tin barely tap it and information technology goes back up.

Answer: Probably y'all are dealing with an alternator with worn brushes. Borer the alternator shake the brushes a bit and help them make ameliorate contact or the copper wires connected to the brushes are damaged.

Question: Volition there be any signs in a Chrysler machine battery last, if you remove the terminal that there is a trouble with the alternator and charging system?

Answer: If the alternator is overcharging, there could be signs of corrosion; but the last may be croaky or loose. But you lot may detect problems while the engine is running, only don't remove whatsoever connections while the engine is running. It can affect sensitive electronics. If you are trying to find a fault in the charging circuit connections, it'due south ameliorate to do a voltage drop test. This volition tell yous the condition of the connections. These other two posts may help you locate this type of problems with the charging system and engine grounds:

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Automotive-Volt...

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Charging-System...

Question: I take a 2011 Mazda 3, two.5. The battery calorie-free turned on when I was driving at 120 km/h and would turn off if I slowed down. The light now starts at 90 km/h and will plough off if I slow down (maybe rpm related, not certain). Battery, alternator and start engine were tested at the dealership but seem to exist OK. The battery seems to slowly bleed within a few weeks equally the speed decreases for the battery light to plow on. What could it exist?

Respond: This may be an alternator event with worn brushes, slowly losing the ability to charge the battery. A common test is to replicate engine rpm at which the light comes on. Watch the engine rpm when the battery light comes on. At home, with the manual in Neutral or Park, increase engine speed to the aforementioned rpm and see if the light comes on. If it does, the alternator needs new brushes.

Question: I have a 1990 Ford F-150 and the alternator stays hot and won't accuse the battery, any suggestions on what is wrong?

Reply: Kickoff, make sure the belt is properly installed, not slipping, and accessory pulleys are running OK. Bank check the charging arrangement wires for loose or corroded connections or damaged wires. This other post may help here:

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Charging-System...

If necessary, have the alternator checked (worn, bad voltage regulator) and battery. Hope this helps.

Question: I take a 2003 VW protrude. I have changed the alternator more than than 8 times. I finally got the right one through the VW parts, but it's still non charging back my battery, and I bought the bombardment a year and a half ago. I have been charging it and it still holding battery, so it'southward driving me crazy equally to why is not working. Can yous aid?

Respond: The trouble could be in the circuit. If your particular model has a fuse (bank check your repair transmission) it may be blown. Less probable, but it could happen, a error in the calculator can prevent the alternator from charging the battery.

Question: I have a new but cheap alternator. What could be causing such a large fluctuation in voltage?

Respond: The diodes could be leaking or shorted. Have the alternator checked before replacing it.

Question: I take a 2006 Ford Freestyle. Last year, the car didn't want to start, and so I replaced the battery. Five miles downwardly the road, the bombardment light came on. I took it to the Ford Dealership to check the problem. They replaced the Alternator. A year later on, I noticed the lights started to dim, then to fade back up. I took it to an Interstate battery shop to have the bombardment checked out. The battery was fantabulous, merely the alternator showed low charge. What should I have the mechanics practise next?

Respond: Although there is a remote possibility the alternator is failing, this may be a charging excursion (positive side) trouble. If you lot explain to the shop when you lot replaced the alternator and about the battery and alternator test results, about likely, they'll take a wait into the charging circuit.

Question: What would cause a new alternator to whine and have the pulley rut up excessively? Starting at ambience air and shooting upwards to 275+ degrees. But when the battery cables are disconnected while the engine is running, the alternator pulley runs smooth and there is no excessive estrus build up. The battery is also make new.

Answer: This is ordinarily acquired by a faulty diode(s), making alternator work extra-hard. Check voltage output; as well, check the charge circuit voltage drop:

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Charging-System...

Question: I have a Nissan Wingroad and I had to replace the bombardment before xviii months of employ as it wouldn't outset without jump starting. When the measures were taken, the charging system measures were 13.560 volts on no load and loaded at 13.170. The battery vendor says that this indicates a charging system problem, but my mechanic says that at that place is no trouble with those readings. The battery voltage was 14.09, cranking x.590. What is the correct position, is in that location a charging problem or not?

Answer: Check the system specifications in your vehicle repair manual. If you don't accept the manual, your local public library may take a re-create in the reference department. Information technology'll be more curate and y'all'll avert guessing. Y'all tin can fifty-fifty do these measurements yourself with the manual. I don't have the manual for the model.

Question: I have a '03 Chevy Silverado alternator that whines and displays a check engine lawmaking, mainly knock sensor. Occasionally cylinder 7 and viii are as well lean. I suspect a bad ground. Do you know where I tin find a visual of where all the grounds are on this truck?

Reply: If y'all don't have the repair manual for your specific model, check your local public library. They may take the transmission in the reference section. Alternator whining sounds may come bad bearings, bushing or misaligned, worn chugalug, fifty-fifty a bad diode on some models.

Question: Why does my '99 Bonneville's charging system go down to 12 volts only when in bulldoze or while idling?

Respond: Normally, the voltage goes down nether load and as the engine warms upwardly. Only you might desire to check the alternator, battery and charging circuit if it dips beneath battery voltage. Having the charging system amperage may requite you a improve diagnostic of the charging system, if necessary.

Question: Can the nuance charging gauge on a '67 Pontiac Catalina cause the charging system not to work?

Reply: It might cause problems with the regulator, only I don't have the schematics with me. If at that place are charging system problems, besides check that the wire and connections going to the starter are all expert.

Question: I have a 2000 Civic EX ii door coupe. The alternator went bad, and I replaced it along with the battery. The auto runs fine. It seems to accuse the battery, but then the battery light comes on. I have driven the automobile, and I haven't had whatever problems running the Ac, lights or radio. I can unplug the alternator, plug information technology back, and the low-cal volition go out. Merely as presently as I plug it in, the calorie-free comes on again. Doesn't seem to change the engine running or idle when I unplug the alternator. What could be the problem?

Answer: If there are whatsoever DTCs, clear them from the estimator memory. Also, bank check the fusible links. Make sure they are still well continued and good.

Question: On my 2003 GT Mustang, when accelerating, my battery light flashes 3 times. I've replaced the battery, my belts are tight, and my alternator voltage is reading 14.lx v the beginning time I checked, and 2d time it was thirteen.90 v. Can't figure out what it is?

Answer: Check the connections. This other post may help:

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Charging-Organization...

Question: Bought a remanufactured alternator for my 2004 Civic today. I cannot get the wiring connector to snap dorsum into the receptacle on the alternator. Can yous give me some pointers, please?

Reply: Make sure the harness clip or connector is not damaged or broken. If the connector is OK, brand sure you lot accept the correct alternator for your particular model.

Question: I have a 2001 Toyota Solar, and the alternator keeps wearing out. Four out in a year in four years. It is a Toyota alternator, not an aftermarket. I have a new Interstate battery. Two repair shops looked and didn't know why. Do you accept any thought what'due south going on?

Answer: Have your battery tested and too make sure all bombardment cables and their respective connections between the alternator and starter are tight and clean.

If there'due south too much resistance in the excursion, it'll wear out your alternator. As well, test the starter and charging circuits, if necessary.

Did they tell you how the alternator failed exactly? That can give you an idea about the issue too. What about problem codes? Scan the figurer, but in example there are whatever awaiting codes.

Question: I have a 2004 Chevy truck and the estimate will stay at 14 volts just sometimes it'll drib down to 12 volts. Is this normal?

Answer: Bank check for a loose connection, wire or cable between the bombardment and the alternator. Wiggle the wires and come across if the voltage changes. Likewise have the alternator checked, if necessary.

Question: I take a Toyota Corolla 2011. I just changed the alternator and battery a couple of months and the battery light came on again. It's non charging at all would you say it'due south my alternator?

Answer: It could exist a faulty alternator or battery. However, the most common trouble is in the circuit. Bank check the voltage drop in the excursion. This other mail may assistance:

https://axleaddict.com/machine-repair/Charging-System...

Also, check engine grounds, if necessary:

https://axleaddict.com/machine-repair/Automotive-Volt...

heathithat2000.blogspot.com

Source: https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Alternator-Problems-Troubleshooting

If Your Checking Ground and Get a Voltage Reading Is This a Short

I. Common Symptoms of a Bad Alternator or Charging System

Read More from AxleAddict

Two. Six Tests for the Charging System in Full general

Three. Charging System Bug and Potential Causes

Iv. Troubleshooting for Unusual Charging System Voltage Drops

Questions & Answers

Belum ada Komentar untuk "If Your Checking Ground and Get a Voltage Reading Is This a Short"

Posting Komentar

Iklan Atas Artikel

Iklan Tengah Artikel 1

Iklan Tengah Artikel 2

Iklan Bawah Artikel